Visita a Porto en la segunda mitad de la semana santa de 2018 cuando Luquitas acaba de cumplir su primer añazo.
Nos hospedamos en la parte más céntrica de la ciudad, cerca de la Rua das Flores, en Cardosas Feels like home a través de Booking.com . Por 100e la noche, localización ideal.
Cerca de allí merce la pena pasear por la Rua das Flores, tomar algún vino con queso en alguno de los wine tasting que tiene y sin duda alguna comer en DOP Restaurante, donde ya no se comen las francesinhas que se recomendaban en el NY Times de hace algunos años pero donde se pueden degustar deliciosos manjares. Excelente el ceviche, las carrilleras y el carpaccio de pulpo, acompañados de un riquísimo Quinta de Santiago alvarinho 2016, un Mapa vincha dos Pais de 2016 y para empezar ujn Burmester Extra dry white Porto. El pequeño Lucas haciendo alarde de su madurez nos deja disfrutar de la comida mientras se manduca una riquísima macedonia de frutas y flirtea con media clientela y empleados del restaurante.
Paseíto por la zona del mercado de abastos donde ahora se celebran conciertos y otras actividades culturales y alcanzamos la ribera del Duoro donde paseamos hasta la noche.
Por la mañana del día siguiente rodeito por Clerigos, Palacio de Cristal, Casa da Musica, Serralves y vuelta por la Ribera donde se pueden contemplar los preciosos puentes y el Duoro, y después a la hora de la comida, cruzamos el puente de Luís Primero para comer en las Bodegas Taylor Taylor Porto donde nuestro pequeño Lucas se zampa un riquísimo Rodaballo.
Visita a la zona de los Clérigos y al día siguiente temprano visita a la biblioteca Lello que inspira a Harry Potter
En Guimaraes donde solo fuimos de paso es recomendable buscar ofertas en booking.com en el hotel Guimaraes. Normalmente es caro, pero se pueden encontrar buenos precios y disfrutar de hotel con desayuno y spa, baño turco y sauna. Además a pesar de parecer que está algo alejado se encuentra a 15 minutos andando del precioso centro de Guimaraes. No dejar de visitar esta preciosa pueblo medieval que fue en su época la capital de Portugal.
Restaurantes:
- Ar de Rio: Gaia, http://www.arderio.pt/ - para la típica "Francesinha" con muy buenas vistas de la ciudad, muy casual
- Barao de Fladgate: Gaia http://taylor.pt/en/visit-taylors/barao-fladgate-restaurant-porto/ (muy bueno, está en las bodegas de Taylors, otras bodegas que están muy bien: FERREIRA http://www.cavesvinhodoporto.com/ferreira.html )
- Dom Toño: Porto http://www.dtonho.com/
- Cafeína: Porto http://www.cafeina.pt/pt/cafeina
Durante el día:
Beyond las típicas visitas turísticas, recomendaría:
- El café Majestic en Rua Santa Catarina
- El hotel Yeatman en Gaia tiene una terraza con las mejores vistas de la ciudad.
- Una visita a las bodegas en Gaia, un paseo en bici de la Ribeira hasta la Foz, un paseo de barco también son muy recomendables.
- Casa da música (http://www.casadamusica.com/)
- El museo de Serralves (https://www.serralves.pt/pt/actividades/)
Te mando también un artículo del NY times que creo que os puede servir de guía ("36 Hours in Porto"), ¡está muy bien!
Para salir:
Podéis encontrar muchos bares en la zona de la "Baixa" en las "Galerias de Paris" (cerca de Torre dos Clérigos, y muy cerca está la Librería Lello, muy bonita, es la que inspiró la de Harry Potter), por ejemplo Gin Club (https://foursquare.com/v/the-gin-club/5079fb5ee4b018ca9636efde) y Champanheria da Baixa. http://www.champanheriadabaixa.com/
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Reporte de NY Times
36 Hours in Porto, Portugal - NY Times
Joao Pina for The New York Times
From left:
Dining in the Galeria de Paris bar in downtown Porto; a Thomas
Struth exhibition in the Fundação Serralves; Manteigaria do Bolhão at the old
Bolhão market, opened in 1914. More Photos »
FOR years, Porto’s motto was, in essence, “You’ve tried the wine; now try the city!” But
these days Portugal’s second-largest metropolis — an attractively faded
hillside city of venerable town houses and Baroque churches — no longer needs
to coast on the reputation of its famous digestif. A jam-packed new night-life
district is taking shape, and a blossoming creative scene features everything
from an upstart design center to the avant-garde Rem Koolhaas-designed Casa de
Música, a stunning concert space. And there’s great news for oenophiles as
well. With the Douro region’s emergence as a hotbed of prize-winning red wines
— not just port — Porto (also known asOporto) can now intoxicate you with myriad vintages, new ambitious restaurants
and even wine-themed hotels.
Friday
6 p.m.
1. GO WEST
A cheap tour (2.50
euros, or $3.35 at $1.34 to the euro) of Porto (also known as
Oporto) awaits on tram line No. 1, which starts near Praça do Infante square
and heads west to the Atlantic coast. Outfitted with old leather seats and wood
paneling, the hourly (or half-hourly, depending on the season) tram cars
clatter on their rails alongside the Douro River, past city squares, churches
and port wine houses. The 20-minute journey drops you in the seaside district
of Foz do Douro, where you can easily stop at Shis (Praia do Ourigo, Esplanada
do Castelo; 351-22-618-9593;shisrestaurante.com), a stylish beachfront restaurant-bar. The terrace is great for sunset
views and Super Bock beer (2.50 euros).
9 p.m.
2. NOT FOR DIETERS
2. NOT FOR DIETERS
The Francesinha
is a cardiologist-unapproved local sandwich of ham, beef, sausage and cheese
with a warm tomato-beer sauce. At Restaurante DOP (Palácio das Artes, Largo
Santo Domingos 18; 351-22-201-4313;ruipaula.com), a crisp minimalist space opened last year by the celebrity chef Rui
Paula, the working man’s snack is elevated to an epicure’s ambrosia, with
ingredients like tenderloin beef, artisanal sausage, mozzarella and a bit of
lobster in the meat gravy. Also first-rate are moist John Dory filets with a
delicate triple-cheese sauce. The 60-page wine list features vintages from the
Douro region, including a medium-bodied silky and acidic 2005 Quinta de Roriz
red (8 euros a glass). Dinner for two, without wine: around 80 euros.
11 p.m.
3. A MARKET REBORN
3. A MARKET REBORN
Nearby, the
venerable Beaux-Arts-style covered market known as Mercado Ferreira Borges was
reborn this year as Hard Club (Praça do Infante 95; 351-70-710-0021; hard-club.com). Four years in the making, the renovated glass-and-steel structure houses
a bookstore, an art exhibition area, a restaurant, a patio, bars and concert
halls. The hardest thing about Hard Club is simply deciding among all the
events, from indie rock concerts to crafts fairs. For weekend club nights,
crowds arrive after 2 a.m. and don’t leave before sunrise. The cover charge
varies.
Saturday
10 a.m.
4. SOME LIKE IT OLD
4. SOME LIKE IT OLD
Unlike Mercado
Ferreira Borges, the still-functioning Mercado do Bolhão (corner of Rua Formosa
and Rua de Sá da Bandeira) seems untouched since it was opened in 1914.
Majestic and dilapidated, the huge indoor-outdoor space recalls a classic
European rail station thanks to acres of wrought iron, grand staircases, white
tile walls and pointed domes. Inside, the aging vendors gossip amid chestnuts,
octopus, sardines, dangling pigs’ hooves and live roosters. Upstairs, in the
northeast corner, a stall called Manteigaria do Bolhão stocks enough cured meat
to feed a corporate picnic (or spark a PETA protest): chourico (2.40 euros per
kilo), presunto (9.50 per kilo), salpicao sausage (6 per kilo) and much more.
12:30 p.m.
5. BEEF, BUNS AND BEYOND
5. BEEF, BUNS AND BEYOND
To the many
paintings, sculptures and installations showcased in the galleries along Rua
Miguel Bombarda, we can add two new types of creative endeavors: beef and fish
preparations. In the airy confines of Bugo Art Burgers (Rua Miguel Bombarda
598; 351-22-606-2179; bugo.com.pt), the burgers are culinary collages of local materials. The Porto e Serra Burger is beef soaked in port and topped with serra da estrela
cheese. The Cod Burger transforms bacalhau into a patty served with classic acorda
(bread purée and coriander). And if you like to eat your burger with
chopsticks, the Oriental Assortment is a three-meat medley — grass-fed beef,
Azores tuna, free-range chicken — with noodles. An excellent panna cotta comes
with a port-raspberry-black-currant sauce. Lunch for two: 35 euros.
2 p.m.
6. SATURDAY AT THE MALL
6. SATURDAY AT THE MALL
Hip and
innovative aren’t words that normally describe shopping malls. But Centro
Comercial Bombarda (Rua Miguel Bombarda 283-285; ccbombarda.blogspot.com) is an exception. Devoted largely to independent Portuguese designers, the
complex houses cult brands like Storytailors (351-22-201-7409; storytailors.pt), known for their fairy tale-inspired fashions for women, and Piurra
(351-22-201-6012; piurra.com), a haven of minimalist cabinetry enlivened with colorful textiles.
4:30 p.m.
7. WHORLS AND ANGLES
7. WHORLS AND ANGLES
Resembling a
jagged white meteorite, the futuristic Casa da Música (Avenida da Boavista
604-610; 351-22-012-0220) is both Porto’s architectural
masterpiece and music mecca. Daily tours in English at 4:30 p.m. (3 euros) take
visitors through the whorls of the angular 17-sided building, designed by the
Dutch star architect Rem Koolhaas and opened in 2005. Treats include the VIP
Room, an angled salon covered with blue ceramic tiles, and the so-called Orange
Room, whose floor gives off wild sounds — bird chirps, percussion — as you step
on it. But the highlight is the main hall, decorated with gold tiger-stripe
designs. Be sure to check the roster of concerts and monthly D.J. parties.
8 p.m.
8. FEED BETWEEN THE LINES
8. FEED BETWEEN THE LINES
Books abound —
holding the menus, lining the walls — at Book (Rua de Aviz 10;
351-91-795-3387; restaurante-book.com), a cozy, candlelit and self-consciously literary restaurant that opened
this fall. Thanks to nouveau Portuguese cuisine that burnishes prosaic
ingredients into poetic dishes (witness pork cheeks with tripe or veal steak in
Torres wine sauce), the restaurant is already a best seller. Fish soup has a
zesty tomato base, chunky texture, crunchy croutons and nuggets of local
shrimp. The rack of lamb is also fine, thanks to a port wine reduction with
hints of vanilla and spice. Sponge cake, aPorto obsession,
arrives as a lush mush with orange and kiwi slices. The smooth house wine, a
Terras do Grifo red, is additional proof that Porto can do more than
just port. Dinner for two, without wine: about 55 euros.
10 p.m.
9. JOIN THE CONGREGATION
9. JOIN THE CONGREGATION
Formerly a haven
of dowdy fabric shops, the neighborhood of Clérigos (Clergymen) now bursts with
bars and a Mardi Gras-like crush of partiers — college kids, young
professionals, 50-something socialites — who pack the streets by night. Galeria
de Paris (Rua Galeria de Paris 56; galeriadeparis.com) is filled to its soaring rafters with vintage radios, old sewing machines
and other retro finds. Even the pump that pours the Sagres beer (1 euro) is
Jules Verne-ish. More contemporary is the low-lighted Baixa bar (Rua Cândido
dos Reis 52; baixa.pt), where a boulder-size disco ball hangs over the dance floor, and
cocktails like the Cosmo Porto (Cointreau, port wine,
red fruit; 6 euros) are featured on the menu.
Sunday
10 a.m.
10. A SOLID FOUNDATION
10. A SOLID FOUNDATION
Art is
everywhere at the Fundação Serralves (Rua Dom João de Castro 210;
351-80-820-0543; serralves.pt): in the gardens, where oversize outdoor works like Claes Oldenberg’s
trowel sculpture loom; in the exceptional bookshop, lined with tomes covering
Art Nouveau jewelry, to modern photography. And it’s abundant in the
foundation’s museum, which hosts contemporary art exhibitions. Lasting until
Feb. 5, “From Page to Space: Published Paper Sculptures” displays cutouts,
pop-ups and other paper creations by artists like Marcel Duchamp, Keith Haring
and Barbara Kruger.
Noon
11. ENTER SANDEMAN
11. ENTER SANDEMAN
Why do most port
wines — Graham’s, Cockburn, Taylor — have British names? What’s the difference
between a white, a tawny and a ruby port? The answers come pouring out during
guided tours (4.50 euros) of the cellars of Sandeman (Largo Miguel Bombarda 3,
Vila Nova de Gaia; 351-22-374-0534; sandeman.eu). If you don’t have enough money for a bottle of 40-year-old tawny (127
euros), a box of chocolates made with port wine is a more affordable Porto souvenir (10 euros).
IF YOU GO
You can’t pop a
cork at The Yeatman (Rua do Choupelo, Vila Nova de Gaia; 351-22-013-3100; the-yeatman-hotel.com) without hitting something wine-related. Billed as a “luxury wine hotel,”
this year-old 82-room establishment has a wine cellar, wine bar, wine
restaurant, special wine dinners and even a wine spa. Doubles in December from 139 euros (about $184).
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